Sewing Pattern Tips
With the help of some of my many sewing books, leaflets and manuals etc, both vintage and modern, I’ve compiled this page to help buyers pick the right sewing pattern for them.
Pattern Types
There are a few different pattern types to choose from based on height and figure development.
Girl – About 5 foot in height. Designed for growing girls whose figures are still immature.
Teen – About 5ft 3” in height. Teen patterns are for ‘the fashion-minded miss’ with a less mature bust and shorter waist than Misses’. You don’t strictly have to be a teen to use a teen pattern, though they do tend to have a younger look.
Junior – About 5ft 5” in height. Junior patterns are for the fully developed figure and 1 inch shorter in the skirt than Misses’ or Women’s. Junior is NOT an age.
Misses’ & Women’s – About 5ft 6” in height. Misses’ are for the young fully developed figure. Women’s are similar, but include larger sizes.
Half sizes – About 5ft 3” in height. Half size patterns are 1” shorter in the waist, narrower in the shoulder and larger at the hip than misses’ & women’s in comparable sizes.
Measuring
You really must know your own measurements as sizes have changed drastically over the years. I do put in my listings an approximate size by todays standards, but this is only APPROXIMATE.
Take your measurements in a well fitting dress. Tape should be snug, but not tight. There are four important measurements.
Chest or High Bust taken around body above the bust up and under the arms.
Bust taken around the body over the fullest part of the bust. This is the the bust measurement a pattern will refer to, they don’t refer to high busts.
(It is important to know that your bust size is NOT your bra size!)
Waist around the natural waistline
Hips around the fullest part, usually about 7” below waistline, or lower if necessary.
If your bust is 3-4” larger than your chest/high bust, you can substitute for your high bust/chest measurement. SO if your bust is 38”, and your high bust/chest is 34”, you should be able to use a 34” pattern (this according to a 1950s Simplicity Sewing Book that I have.)
I’ve always personally found using a size smaller is a better fit. Patterns always have built in ease allowance of on average 2-4” at the bust.
Size Guide
This guide is by today's standards (UK):
|
Size (UK) |
Bust |
Waist |
Hips |
|
0 (is there anyone this size!!) |
28 |
21 |
30 |
|
2 |
29 |
22 |
31 |
|
4 |
30 |
23 |
32 |
|
6 |
31 |
24 |
33 |
|
8 |
32 |
25 |
34 |
|
10 |
34 |
26 |
36 |
|
12 |
36 |
28 |
38 |
|
14 |
38 |
30 |
40 |
|
16 |
40 |
32 |
42 |
|
18 |
42 |
34 |
44 |
|
20 |
44 |
36 |
46 |
|
22 |
46 |
38 |
48 |
|
24 |
48 |
40 |
50 |
|
26 |
50 |
42 |
52 |
Many thanks to eBay user: 'grumpyoldcow' for the following tip:
"When a pattern is worn, or the paper has gone brittle I iron it onto lightweight interfacing, this is also excellent for dealing with the perforations from the dreaded tracing wheel. I save all little off cuts of interfacing and as soon as I see evidence of a tracing wheel having been used I iron patches over the darts and seam allowances if neccesary. Patterns still fit in envelopes and all the markings can be read. I also use it for making sleeves wider. I always need to split sleeve patterns to add width and I iron interfacing either side of the slit leaving the exposed bit un ironed and it gives a perfect job every time."
More tips on the way soon
If you have any tips for vintage pattern users, do let me know, and I shall add them to this page.
) 
